Six temporary staff arrive at eight on a Friday, the store opens at nine, and the person who trained them last year has left. This is the normal condition of seasonal retail, and it is why snow displays fail in the second week rather than the first: the people who built it knew what they were doing, and the people maintaining it were shown once, quickly, by somebody in a hurry.
Twenty minutes is enough, but only if you teach three things and refuse to teach a fourth. Mix, depth, top-up. Everything else, including the chemistry and the brand story, can wait until January.
Minutes one to five: mixing, done by them, not by you. Four scoops into a bucket, two litres of water, stir for thirty seconds, wait two minutes, stir again. The waiting is the part people skip and the part that produces wet batches, so make them stand there and watch it until the water is gone from the surface. Do it twice, once well and once deliberately over-wet, so they can feel the difference in the bucket.
Minutes six to twelve: depth, with a marked stick. A length of cane with three bands at 3, 6 and 10 cm, kept with the snow kit. Depth is the only specification that matters in week three, and a stick is faster and more reliable than a tape measure on a cold morning. Show them where the 10 cm mark sits on the actual display and let them check it themselves.
Minutes thirteen to eighteen: top-up, on a real section. Mist, rough, mist, and add dry material only where the stick says it is needed. Let them do it while you watch, and let them make the mistake of adding too much, because correcting an over-filled patch teaches faster than any instruction.
Minutes nineteen and twenty: what to do when it looks wrong and they do not know why. The answer is always the same: photograph it, message the named contact, do not improvise. Improvisation by an untrained person is how a display ends up with three textures and a colour seam.
Everything a seasonal worker needs to know about quality comes down to depth and surface. If the stick reads 8 cm at the crest and the surface is evenly misted, the display is fine. If it reads 5 cm, it needs material. If it reads 12 cm and looks lumpy, somebody has been adding dry powder on top of a wet surface, and the fix is to rough it back rather than add more.
Give them one sentence to remember: never add dry powder to a dry surface. It is the single most common error and it produces a crust that looks like a different product within a day.
Leave a kit at the display: a spray bottle, a fork, a small bag of dry powder, the depth stick, and a laminated card with the four steps and the contact number. Everything the person needs should be within three metres of the thing they are maintaining, because the alternative is a walk to a stockroom and a decision not to bother.
Set a fixed time for the top-up rather than leaving it to judgement. Ten minutes before opening and again at the end of the day, every day, whether it looks like it needs it or not. Fixed times get done; judgement calls get deferred until somebody senior notices.
Walk the display on the second morning and look for three things: a colour seam where new material met old, dry patches at the front edge nearest the door, and footprints. All three tell you whether the training landed. A seam means they topped up rather than misted first. Front-edge drying means the door draught is worse than you thought. Footprints mean the barrier is in the wrong place, which is a design problem rather than a training one.
Twenty minutes, six people, one stick and one card. The full induction sheet and the four-step maintenance card are in the artificial snow user guides and print on a single page.
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